How to wire lamp holder? Electricity can be dangerous, so it's important you ensure wiring is connected safely. Different appliances require different size wires, depending on the wattage the appliance needs to operate. Light bulbs are generally low wattage, usually between 25 and 75 watts, so using a reasonably thin gauge wire, such as AWG 16 to wire a lamp holder, is fine.
For push-in connectors, the wires do literally just push in. There is usually a gauge printed on the unit to show how much insulation to strip. Soldering stranded wire is helpful but not necessary if twisted tightly. There is usually also a tab to press with a flat screwdriver to release the wire (in case you need to remove it).
How to wire lamp holder? If you wonder why you have to identify and connect the hot and neutral wires correctly in a lamp, read on. True, the lamp will usually work either way. But the issue is safety. Normally, power (voltage) comes through the tab on the socket base. The threaded socket is the neutral. So when the switch is off, all “hot” parts of the lamp are well protected. And when the switch is on, only the tab at the bottom of the socket is “hot.” But if the wiring is reversed and the power goes to the threaded socket, the threaded socket is always hot, whether the switch is on or off.
There’s a much greater potential for getting a dangerous shock, especially when changing a bulb. The worst situation occasionally occurs in old fixtures when the cardboard insulation sleeve wears out and the outer metal shell of the socket touches the threaded socket. If the threaded socket is hot, every metallic part of the lamp becomes hot! Remember when repairing lamps, the neutral wire in the lamp cord is marked (usually with a rib or ribs) and it connects to the wide blade of the plug at one end and to the neutral screw (usually silver but may have some other identification) at the other end.
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